Wednesday, June 25, 2008

pic dump 6: my belt and
yesterday's (6/24) walk to Olympia

First, two shots of the holes I've punched into my belt:





I punched another hole into the belt (not pictured) just two nights ago. The thing fits now, but it's tight enough to make my hips even more chunkily feminine than they were.

What follows now is yesterday's walk.









When you move past the 'brary and tennis court into the woods leading to the residence halls, you see the Ent:





The following picture depicts one of the most gratifying things about this region: people here understand how to build and use roundabouts. In DC, which was designed by a Frenchman (which means the citizens and later city designers really ought to know better), we have no clue how to handle roundabouts (ronds-points in French; don't ask me why they don't say points ronds).



Roundabouts, when done correctly, have only two explicit and easy-to-remember traffic rules: (1) traffic always circulates counterclockwise, so you always turn right to enter the roundabout, circulate leftward, and exit rightward; and (2) the cars inside the roundabout have the right of way. Simple. And much easier to manage than four-way stop intersections (though I've noticed many of those around these parts as well).

Below, you see I've found the Batmobile (or the San Francisco version of it, judging by the frilly crap hanging from the rear view mirror):



Below: Taco Bell and Pizza Hut caught having sex with each other! Here's a picture of their illicit union:



We have such fast food fusions in the DC-Metro area, but they're usually confined to college campuses.

Brother Luke, who's familiar with the east coast, had mentioned Long John Silver's, but that produced blank stares. Mention a chain called Skipper's, though...



Boundaries:



Barely twenty yards later:



I was surprised that St. Martin's is that close to Olympia. The Olympia city limit is barely a mile or so from the campus entrance.

This is annoying: a road whose name isn't a proper noun, but merely a generic term:



I once worked for two weeks as a telemarketer; this was years and years ago, back when I was stupider than I am today. The company had a shady aura, as was evident in its name: Dealer Broker Trust. What the hell kind of name is that? I quit soon after joining once I realized that the positive response rate to my cold calls was under half a percent.

My route from the campus took me first to College Way, then to Pacific Avenue, then to State Avenue. Along Pacific, I saw:



The romanization tips us off to the fact that the place is Korean, because what you're seeing is the Korean pronunciation of those characters. "Myeong" (or "myong," or "myung") is "ming" in Chinese. I don't know what it is in Japanese. "Myeong" means "bright" or "brilliant." The "sae" is a character found in the pair "sae-gye," or "world," so I'm pretty sure "myeong sae" is "bright world."

Our first glimpse of the capitol:



I think this building houses a local newspaper, The Olympian:



We're heading steadily downhill and closer to both the capitol and the water. Cool painting, bad dumpsters:



Below, we're downtown and moving uphill toward the capitol:



I think the stone below marks the spot where Lewis and Clark stopped walking, looked at each other, shouted, "We're fucking DONE!" and then exploded in a shower of blood, bone, and meat.



Monument to John Rankin Rogers, two-time governor of Washington:



Below: a BBQ joint whose smell had impressed me the previous day:



We're at the capitol! Note the wacky tree, all puffed out on the [our] left side. There were weird trees all over the grounds there.



Getting closer to the capitol and the Temple of Justice (not visible here, but sitting across from the capitol's front entrance):



Modern art tribute of some sort plus modern, stylized totem pole:



Another weird tree. This one looked like a brain that had sustained a blow from an axe:



Memorial to the fallen of WWI:



Closeup:



And the back of the monument's pediment pedestal (thanks, Charles) says...



The capitol building was too large for me and my modest camera to encompass, especially from up close. I tilted the camera to get this top-to-bottom shot. Sorry if it makes you dizzy:



Behold-- the Temple of Justice! I keep expecting superheroes to fly out of it.



Another dedication:



The following shot shows you an obelisk and, across the street, the other part of Capitol Campus:



But what's on the obelisk? Why...



The following pic shows a fountain that is supposedly a replica of the Tivoli Fountain in Italy.



Another shot of Capitol Campus:



This should be self-explanatory:



Below: the back of the Korean War Veterans Memorial. Today is 6/25, the date marking the beginning of the 1950-53 conflict in Korea. Maybe take some time out to remember those who fought, and to celebrate how far along Korea has come since those days.



When I saw this wall from a distance, I could have sworn it was a rock-climbing wall.



The Korean War Veterans Memorial, wide shot:



Closeup:



The Forgotten War (that's what it says in Korean, too):



Flowers at the monument:



These rocks mean something, but I don't know what:



A touching poem dedicated to those who fought:



[NB: If the image is cut off, right-click on it and do a "view image" or "view picture" command. This works for all such images, by the way.]

I wonder how well the English and Korean texts match up in this one, especially given the language about North Korea:



A closeup of the Korean soldier:



A closeup of the American soldier:



A footbridge that leads back across the street to the capitol side:



A shot of the nearby inlet. This was taken on the switchbacking path that lies behind the Temple of Justice and leads down to the water.



A sign about the Olympia-Yashiro friendship bridge, which extends 4th Avenue across the river:



This is the little, sculpted park uphill from that bridge that contains the world's weirdest park bench:



Another shot of the park:



As you see, it's called the Park of the Seven Oars.



More nifty landscaping at POTSO:



Voilà! Here at last is the world's weirdest park bench. You might not be able to tell, but the bench itself is tiny. The thing looked singularly unable to support my weight, so I didn't try sitting on it.



The eponymous oars:



You see how salmon figure prominently in the mindset of coastal Washingtonians:



Looking back from the park, across the river to the capitol:



A shot of the inlet's marina:



You know, if someone had asked me where I'd like to go for vacation, my first thought would never have been the Olympia/Lacey region. Now, though, I'd answer differently. The entire distance I've traveled since Blaine has been well worth the trip. There's a lot to see and do here. The only thing is that you have to put up with the often-gloomy weather, but that gloom is easy to forget when you have a string of bright and happy days, as the past few days have been.

I took the following pic mainly because I liked the clouds.



The following pic takes us back downtown toward the capitol and all that. I took this street pic because, whenever cars rolled over those bricks, the sound reminded me of the noise of horses galloping-- but sped up about five times. Horses on cocaine, then.



Ah, love. Sometimes it happens between a tall woman and a stubby man. (Not in Korea, though, where almost every college girl I talked to said she'd never marry a man shorter than she was, no matter how kind, smart, rich, and handsome he might be.)



A weird mixture of Japanese art and Arthur C. Clarke:



I'm dying to know what animals are on this totem pole, which stands at the foot of one of the two bridges crossing the water close to the capitol:



After circling the end of the inlet twice, I headed back up to the capitol and saw the Vietnam memorial:



Another shot:



Flags:



A dedication:



More flags:



Crossing over to the Capitol Campus again, I was freaked out by how quintessentially Washington, DC the building architecture was:



Upon leaving Capitol Campus, I saw this strange, shady grove of boxed-in trees:



On my way back uphill toward Lacey, I had to get a shot of this kinky representation of clouds cheerfully eating each other's butts:



Thought I was joking? It even says, "I eat clouds"!!



And here, at long last, is the Yoda prank:



A closeup of the old guy:



Those traffic signal buttons usually look like this:



Below, you see Happy Teriyaki III, the place that serves the ever-mysterious "happy trio."



Finally, I took this pic of Han's Burgers, not far from the entrance to SMU. I wanted to capture this sign because, if I'm not mistaken, it's sacrilegious to refer to Philly's pride as a "Philly sub." It's a Philly cheesesteak, Mr. Han!



If you do a Googlefight between Philly cheesesteak and Philly sub, the latter wins, but this is because the phrases aren't wrapped in quotation marks. When you put quotation marks around those phrases and do the Googlefight, you get zero results for both. But if you wrap the phrases in quotation marks and use good old Google, you discover that "Philly sub" nets you a little over 6,000 results, whereas "Philly cheesesteak" nets you 215,000. Slam.

So! That was yesterday's walk. In a moment, I'll give you distance calculations and will add the update to this post.

UPDATE: Whoa-- not as far as I thought. 39.2 miles. I've made up the "cheated" distance, but only just barely.


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the SMU monastic refectory (eat in silence!)

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refectory hallway

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morning shadow, 7AM, just before breakfast

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before I go to bed

1. In my blog post about breakfast at the monks' refectory, I forgot to mention one important element: after the audiobook was turned off, Brother Luke gave a reading from the Rule of Saint Benedict. I found this much more fascinating than the audiobook (sorry, all) for what it implied about monastic life, which is a strict commitment that requires constant tending, like a weed-prone garden.

I suppose the same is true, in one form or another, with any deep commitment or loving relationship: you commit, but commitment implies constant recommitment as well, for these things can lose momentum when they're not maintained. For Benedictine monks, perhaps this means listening to excerpts of the Rule on a regular basis. For a married couple, this will mean doing big and little things more than once: saying "I love you," giving gifts, remembering birthdays and other special times, sharing thoughts, feelings, and touch. Commitment is the garden you choose to tend. Ignore it, reject it, pretend you didn't choose it-- and soon there's no more garden.

2. The good news: I uploaded all the photos I'd taken during my second 20-miler. The bad news: the library closed before I could complete the blogging. Fear not: I'll be at a computer almost all day tomorrow (Wed.), so it'll get done and you'll have a chance to enjoy the freakishness.

3. I'm going to attempt to do most of the Genjo Marinello transcription the old-fashioned way tomorrow if the library IT people prove unable to help me.

4. Around 10AM tomorrow, I'm hoping to sit down and have a talk with Brother Luke about life, the universe, and everything. Keep fingers and tentacles crossed: I have to remember to bring my voice recorder.

5. Haircut and laundry MUST be done sometime tomorrow. Must.

6. An evening visit to the teriyaki place revealed a staff that, unlike on Sunday, was almost entirely Korean. Even the one non-Korean Asian lady I saw could speak Korean, though with a cute accent. I wonder whether the customers knew they were hearing Korean and not Japanese. By the way, I still don't know which foods make up the "happy trio."

Busy day ahead. No rest for the weary.


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SMU campus, 10:25PM

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standing on campus access road and looking out to College Way (traffic lights in the distance), 10:20PM

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the raven steals the poisoned bread and rescues St. Benedict (image on stone bench in front of campus library)

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Tuesday, June 24, 2008

whoa

I just did a distance measurement on Google Maps-- simply a connect-the-dots of the cities I've stayed at and/or passed through. The reading I get if we go as far as Lacey is 190 miles. I've done my "penance" to make up for the three spots where I was driven, so the figure is legitimate. It's also a conservative measurement: the cities are connected by straight lines; the actual paths will have been generally curvier (esp. between cities) or broken into lots of right angles (esp. within cities). So I'm somewhere close to the 200-mile mark, folks. Damn.


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sound file update

Still unable to upload sound files; the library computers have admin software that won't allow me to connect my voice recorder to the computer. The IT person, someone named Rick, will be in tomorrow morning, I'm told, so I'll be back here again. In fact, I'm likely to be here all day tomorrow, as I won't be walking another 20 miles. Wednesday is my final full day here; I leave on Thursday morning, so tomorrow's really it for actually resting my feet all day.

Strangely, this computer is allowing me to upload the digicam photos from today's walk, so at least you'll get to see the funky sights I saw today.


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taking a breather

I'm sitting on a park bench* by the water in Olympia, Washington, behind the state capitol, taking a short break before moving on with today's 20-miler, of which I've already done about half.

I had to poop something fierce last night, and I'm pretty sure it had to do with the fact that I had two-and-a-half meals yesterday: a full breakfast, a full dinner, and a snack at lunchtime. That's quite a change from the roughly one-meal-a-day schedule I've been on since May 26.

Today, I therefore elected to skip breakfast; I'll have lunch in town during the return portion of the walk, and will likely skip dinner to have more time to shower, do laundry, get a haircut, and get back on one of the library computers.

I brought along both the BlackBerry and the digicam today; I'm very disappointed at the short lives of my digicam batteries, which seem to lose their charge very quickly, even when they're just sitting in storage.

Battery wimpiness notwithstanding, I've taken a ton of pics and will take several more, including the world's weirdest park bench and the Yoda prank, during the return leg.

I thought ahead and brought along all three pairs of digicam batteries; if all six batteries conk out on me, I'll still have the BlackBerry, which sports a more respectable battery.

Ah, yes-- a note to the several friends and acquaintances requesting a map of my travels: I'll do my best, but figuring out the Google Maps functions is going to take some time. If I don't get my act together before I leave Lacey, I'm stuck until I have access to a real computer again (have I told you what a pain it is to call up and attempt to read maps on the BlackBerry?).**

In the meantime, there's nothing stopping you from using Google Earth (or GMaps, or whatever works) to follow my path. Just use Google Earth to find the locations I've mentioned, and you're good to go.





*Gnats are flying up my nose.

**All this would be moot if I had a chase vehicle with WiFi hookup, a laptop, a place to sleep...


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Monday, June 23, 2008

a glutton again

I ate dinner with the monks this evening; as with breakfast, we didn't talk, but unlike breakfast, there was audio accompaniment: an audiobook that seemed to be about the lives and shenanigans of certain Italian architects-- the stories behind the construction of various European cathedrals-- read by some very smooth-sounding Brit. We ate in silence and listened; the funnier anecdotes provoked a good bit of laughter among the brothers, and the audiobook reminded us that human behavior hasn't really changed all that much over the centuries. We understand all too well the petty jealousies that drove the artists of centuries ago to write nasty letters, issue small-minded critiques, and strive to make each other look bad in the public eye. Has the human situation improved all that much?

There are good arguments to be made on both sides. Steven Pinker, for one, is no theist but he does think humanity as a whole has made great moral progress. Believers will, of course, point in many cases to the founders of their traditions (assuming we're talking about traditions with distinct founders) and say, "This person changed the world," whether it's Jesus opening the gates of Heaven or the Buddha setting the Wheel of the Law into motion. Religious folks and Pinker aren't saying the same thing, to be sure, but they do seem to share a certain degree of optimism about humanity's future.

At the same time, we still have murder, war, mugging, theft, and other forms of cruelty, deceit, and mayhem. None of this has been eliminated, and at least on the emotional level, we can relate to both perpetrators and victims who find themselves involved, in some capacity or other, in the cycle of suffering. It was a question we were asked in a theology class in grad school: since Jesus' departure, has the world improved? I know my father says, "Cats are cats and dogs are dogs." I don't think he's implying that the situation will never change, but he does seem-- perhaps rightly-- to be making an observation about human history, biology, and psychology.

What do you think? The more things change, the more they stay the same? Or do you see a steady, "upward" moral progress, as Pinker does?

Anyway, dinner found me once again piling on the food. The monks didn't say anything about my crass self-indulgence (they were, in fact, quite friendly), which kept me from feeling too guilty.

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wish I'd had my camera

I did my 20-miler today (I need to verify the distance, but I'm pretty sure it was at least 20 miles). I didn't bring the BlackBerry along with me, so I missed a few messages, but even worse was that I missed the chance to photograph some interesting sights and moments today:

1. the state capitol building and Temple of Justice (not to mention "Capitol Campus") in Olympia, which is right next to Lacey;

2. the Korean War Memorial on Capitol Campus (6/25, yuk-i-o, is only 2 days away, and the memorial's already decorated);

3. the tree on the SMU grounds that was turned into an Ent by some wiseass student;

4. the Yoda sticker that some prankster stuck on a traffic crossing sign (the instructions that accompany the buttons you press to get the "crossing man" symbol) so that the sign read, "press button and wait for [Yoda] signal to cross";

5. the world's weirdest park bench

--and so much more. I had thought about doing a totally different route tomorrow, but given what I saw today, I might do the same route again, but armed with the digicam this time.

It's 6:56PM as I write this, and the library closes at 8PM, so I'm a bit pressed for time. I'm going to attempt my very first sound file upload, but just FYI, the file won't be for public consumption (though Charles is free to listen to it all he wants, since it'll be in the Liminality FTP space); because of the poor sound quality, I'm hoping to transcribe the review, which will read better than it sounds, mostly thanks to my poor interviewing skills. The conversation is with Genjo Marinello of Choboji, the Zen temple in downtown Seattle about two miles uphill from Paul Cox's house.* If I can hammer out the transcript while I'm here at the abbey, great. If not, you're going to have to wait, I'm afraid.

UPDATE: No dice in my attempt to upload. I apparently need some sort of system administrator password that will allow this computer to accept my device, and it's now too close to closing time for me to go through all that. I'll try this again tomorrow... or will start transcribing the old-fashioned way: listening, pausing, typing, lather, rinse, repeat. That way, we avoid the upload issue altogether.





*When I look back on my brief time in Seattle proper, I'm often thankful I didn't hit Paul's house first and then walk to Choboji; the slope from the water up to where Choboji sits is pretty hairy when you're out of shape and loaded down.


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a word about Blackberry photos

All things end.

When I upload my BlackBerry photos, I'm sending them to Blogger's servers, and Blogger gives me only one gigabyte's worth of storage capacity. I'm already using 6% of that capacity with the photos I've uploaded (the Walk is barely a month old), so I'll soon have to figure out how to send pics from the BlackBerry to Photobucket, where I have unlimited bandwidth, and display the pics that way. This isn't something for you, the reader, to worry about, but it's rapidly becoming a concern for me. Sit tight.


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merci à Paul Cox

Je me retrouve encore une fois dans l'obligation de remercier Paul Cox, celui qui m'avait logé quand j'étais en centre ville (à Seattle). Il vient d'écrire un essai traitant de moi et de mon projet sur le marrant FAA Follies (blog à plusieurs membres), site consacré aux hurlements contre le FAA.

Merci, Paul!

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silent gluttony and today's agenda

Gluttony is, as you know, one of the seven mortal sins in Catholic reckoning, and I engaged in it at the Benedictine refectory this morning. I was out of my room by 6:50AM, but didn't know where the refectory was, so I wandered about the campus for a bit. Luckily, the monks came filing out of the church around 7AM (morning mass, I assume), and with Father Paul were Matt and Lisa, who had obviously gotten up much earlier than I had. We headed to the refectory together, and Fr. Paul reminded us that, unlike how it goes in the normal cafeteria, the monks eat in silence.

The refectory was set up buffet-style, with a variety of standard American breakfast foods on offer. I greedily nabbed some fruit (banana, grapes, cantaloupe, pineapple), a slice of French toast, some hash browns, a lump of bacon-laced scrambled egg, and three sausage links.

Then I looked over at Fr. Paul's plate and saw he had taken only a bagel. I looked at my plate. I looked at Father's plate. My plate. Father's plate. Oy.

I didn't feel guilty for long, though; the food was too tasty. We four ate at the guest table in companionable silence, though Fr. Paul did occasionally whisper to us about proper procedure (as he did for our benefit at certain moments during vespers yesterday). As the monks finished their meals, they rose from their respective tables and exited, leaving their plates and silverware where they were. I shrugged and did likewise.

I managed to get Fr. Paul, who is a busy man, to stand still long enough to take a picture in the hallway outside the refectory; I've already posted the photo.

Because I'm about to go on my walk, I'll be missing lunch, but will be back in time for dinner. The buffet format combined with the monastic atmosphere produces a sort of stomach-centered cognitive dissonance: I want to wolf down three platefuls of food, but feel I should show some restraint. Ah, well... the way I see it, the discipline is probably good for me. As I did yesterday and this morning, I'll continue to content myself with a single go at the buffet station-- no seconds.

So I'm off on a 20-miler in a few minutes-- exploring the campus, exploring the local bike trails I heard about yesterday, and generally making up "lost" distance. Once I'm back, I hope to spend some time on a computer in the nearby 'brary, maybe get a haircut, and think about doing another load of laundry. If it turns out I'm unable to do the latter two items today, I'll do them tomorrow. No rush.


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at last: the elusive Father Paul

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what's on my mind

I mentioned earlier that I wanted to talk about an important mental shift I've made. This has been burbling around in my head for a bit and has produced some mixed feelings, but ultimately I think this is for the best despite the blow it deals to my pride and ego.

I had originally said that, as a matter of policy, I would not be accepting any rides except in the event of serious injury. I may even have used more pompous and melodramatic phrasing like, "I will not step into any vehicle unless..."

Well, the uncomfortable fact of the matter is that I've stepped into vehicles three times, last night having been the third time. Forgetting for a moment the "oughts" implied by my no-vehicles policy, the "is"es are enough to show that the policy is a sham and should be dropped.

As you'll recall, I accepted my first ride after having walked all night from Bellingham to Samish Island, a walk that pretty much killed my feet and left me lying in a Mount Vernon Best Western for two or three nights. I simply could not have walked the extra 15 or 16 miles that day (back when my backpack was ten pounds heavier), so I gave in and accepted that ride from Glen, who kindly drove me to that hotel.

My second ride wasn't really a choice: State Trooper Boisen drove me off Route 522 after he asked me to get into his car, and took me most of the way to my destination in Bothell. While he was polite, I wasn't really in a position to say "no" to his request to get in the car.

In both of the above cases, I feel I can be forgiven for having chosen the options I did, but last night was different, and this is what has finally forced me to acknowledge the fundamental incompatibility between my policy and my actual behavior.

Last night, I made it on foot to Steilacoom from downtown Tacoma; I doubt the walk was even fifteen miles, but I started late and the march was tiring, whatever the mileage. When I belatedly looked up the local inn, the Above the Sound Bed and Breakfast, I discovered the B&B was completely booked through the entire weekend.

I seriously considered repeating my Bellingham-to-Samish Island stunt, i.e., walking through the night from Steilacoom to Lacey, a distance of nearly 20 miles in this case. I also considered doing something radical, like finding a spot in Steilacoom on which to camp (or snooze homeless-style) illegally, but after two encounters with the police, I was more paranoid than ever about ending up on the wrong side of the law. Steilacoom is a beautiful little town, but all its property is spoken for. The way I saw it, it would be impossible for a guy with no street smarts to find a spot where he would be guaranteed a respite from the police.

At the same time, I was also turning over the question of what time I should arrive in Lacey. I had told Father Paul I would likely be arriving late on Sunday, but despite Fr. Paul's flexibility about scheduling (he's a kind and easygoing chap), I felt I would be inconveniencing him by requiring him to make arrangements with the campus office that handles nighttime security.

With all that in mind-- my fatigue, the late hour, the evening chill, the worries about the next day's schedule-- I decided to call a cab that would take me to Lacey. (Thanks, Ken, for responding.) I reasoned that, as with the Samish Island and Route 522 rides, I would put the sixteen unwalked miles "on my tab," so to speak, and would walk the missed distance later.

This is, in fact, what I plan to do on Monday and Tuesday morning: walk 20 miles each day to make up my 39 miles. I'll be doing the walks without the backpack but will bring along the Camelbak for hydration.

Yet I can't shake the feeling that I'm cheating. Part of me thinks it's perfectly legitimate to walk X miles to make up for having been driven X miles-- other trans-American walkers have done similar things, largely for the same sauver l'honneur reasons. But in making those miles up, I will have walked the appropriate distance, but not the appropriate path. In my case, I need to make up 39 miles, but the walks I do tomorrow and Tuesday won't be those 39 miles, if you know what I mean.

And unlike with the two previous rides, I feel I wimped out last night. I was on my last legs at Samish Island and had no choice on that bridge on Route 522, but last night I probably could have chosen to keep on walking, despite what it would have cost my feet. I didn't choose that path, and it bothers me, and that's why I was so oblique, earlier, about what I was doing in Lacey. The astute reader will have noted that I'd gotten to Lacey mighty quickly for a guy who had just arrived in Steilacoom.

So the upshot is that my "policy" is one I haven't lived up to, and probably shouldn't try to live up to. While it sticks in my craw to realize (and to publicly acknowledge) how weak-willed I am, I can't see any other course of action than to admit my personal failings and to retool the policy according to what lies within my current abilities: accepting rides when I'm at my limit for whatever reason, and making up the missed mileage as soon as possible.

At the end of the day, I still want to be able to say that, in crossing the country, I walked the entire distance I set for myself. And I suppose I will have done so: by the time the walk is done, I will have walked somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000 miles, all in the space of a year or so. What I won't be able to say, though, is that I literally walked all the way across America.

Don't mind me. A lot of this is just pride talking.


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post-vespers, post-dinner, settling down

The SMU campus is undeniably gorgeous, and today's weather was the perfect complement to the scenery the campus offers. According to Father Paul (who asked that I wait until tomorrow to take his picture), SMU's undegrad population is around 1200 students-- about 400 fewer students than my teen alma mater, Mount Vernon High School in Alexandria, Virginia. About 40% of SMU's students are Catholic.

The entrance road to campus is 6th Avenue, just off College Way. The campus is set about a half-mile back from the main drag, so traffic, while audible, is just a pleasant murmur. A lot like the well-manicured George Mason University in Fairfax, Virginia, SMU is beautifully landscaped and gifted with large, forested areas ("That's where you keep the werewolves, eh?" I joked). It's late June, so I'm not seeing the campus in full beer-and-hormone swing, but the current ambience is conducive to great tranquility. I picked a good time and place to take a break for a few days.

I arrived, sweaty and reeking, at the guest house around 1PM, and was lucky that Father Paul was also on his way over: he saw me as I was approaching the guest house. "What's your name?" he called down to me, obviously knowing the answer. "Kevin," I replied. "Are you Father Paul?"

Fr. Paul showed me which path to take up to the second-floor entrance to the guest house (see photo in one of the previous posts); we shook hands. Father let me in and showed me my room: Number 33, the Saint Hildegarde suite. As you saw in the previous photos, the room is comfortably appointed-- not a monk's cell by any means.

Father very kindly offered to take care of my laundry needs, which made me feel guilty: I'm used to doing my own laundry, and given how little I'm paying for both meals and lodging, it feels as though I'm sneaking an extra service in. (That reminds me: I need to buy more powdered detergent.)

Father said I should take my shower and leave any laundry out by my door. He also invited me to 5PM vespers and said he wanted to introduce me to the young couple also staying at the guest house. I met them at the church: Matt and Lisa. Matt is an SMU alum; he and his girlfriend are in the area and exploring some of Matt's past.

Vespers (my very first vespers, by the way) was another interesting study in ritual space and movement. It began with an introit-- a musical prelude with which most Protestants are familiar. When the "schola" of monks filed in two by two, we congregants stood. The monks approached the bare table at the front of the sanctuary that probably serves as an altar during a normal mass; as each pair of monks reached the table, they bowed and then split, walking to seats on opposite sides of the sanctuary and turning to stand facing forward with the rest of us. This continued until all the monks had filed in. I noticed the monks were in standard Benedictine black robes, and that none was bald or shaven Franciscan-style. One monk in my section was wearing a black skullcap; I don't know why.

Vespers was notable for what it lacked: a homily, an offering period, and communion. What it was, instead, was a series of songs, brief silent periods, and responsive prayers. The singers/readers would take turns with the assembled congregants (not many of us this afternoon) during each stage of vespers. Silent periods were usually spent seated, while singing was mostly (wholly?) done standing.

The brother who did a reading was a lucky devil because he stood at an impressive lectern formed in the shape of a giant black eagle, its wings stretched and spreading upward at roughly 45-degree angles. I was in a good position to see the reader, but I imagine those great wings hid him from the congregants in the peripheral seats.

Seating was in modern, post-Vatican 2 style: the "theater in the round" favored by those church leaders intent on aggiornamento,* on bringing the Church into the modern age in part by making the atmosphere less stand-offish (many Protestant churches still prefer seating in the Teutonic style, with pews in strict ranks and congregants staring into the backs of their fellows' heads. Of course, many of the more venerable Catholic cathedrals also stick with rigid ranks.)

I had dinner not at the monks' refectory but at the regular student cafeteria, which is where the Sunday dinners are apparently taken. Tomorrow morning's 7AM breakfast, however, will be in the refectory. My meal: split pea soup, a salad, soda, and two chocolate chip cookies.

I sat with Matt, Lisa, and Brother Luke, who turned out to be half-Korean. In the cafeteria, I also met a group of Koreans (there's just no escaping us hanguk-saram-deul), some of whom were at SMU as seminarians to learn English before eventually heading back to Korea. I spoke in Korean with some girls in the group (obviously not on their way to becoming priests). When they found out I spoke some Korean, had spent eight years in Korea, and was half-Korean, one girl said "Shingi-ha-nae!" --an expression I'd roughly translate in this context as, "Whoa, that's wild!" The expression can also mean things like "That's weird!" or "That's strange!", as when you realize you're witnessing an improbable turn of events, or a creepy or fascinating coincidence. (Charles? What's a better way to explain this expression?)

We four sat outside and ate our meals at a round table under a large parasol; talk ranged from travel to language learning to SMU-related affairs. A fifth person joined our group; I can't remember his name, but I keep thinking it might've been Nick. He and Matt's girlfriend Lisa both have some interest in counseling; Lisa's gotten her MA in Human Development and Nick is on his way to an MA. Nick is also a musician; he had just come back from a church gig when he joined us.

After dinner, we all went our separate ways; I walked back to the guest house, Brother Luke made his way back to wherever he was going (the monastery?), and Matt, Lisa, and Nick (I do hope someone'll tell me his actual name) went for a walk around the campus to see what had changed since Matt had graduated.

So that brings us up to date in terms of today's events. It's been a pleasant, relaxing day, and I've once again had the chance to meet some good folks.





*If you see the word "adjourn" in this Italian term, which held some importance during Vatican 2 (1962-65), you wouldn't be far wrong. The "jour" in "adjourn" can be traced most immediately to the French word for "day"; "aggiornamento" contains the Italian equivalent.

To "adjourn" is, etymologically speaking, to "bring out into the daylight" or "bring up to the day." When a meeting is adjourned, you step out of cloistered confinement and into the sun's brightness; you also set the date for the next meeting. "Aggiornamento," which means something more like "updating" in the Vatican 2 context, implies that certain aspects of the Roman Church need to be "brought into the daylight" of modernity. The concept therefore refers to one of the underlying themes of Vatican 2: making the Church more directly relevant to one's personal life.

The Catholic Church gets bashed for its lingering archaisms, but you have to admit that it's actually one of the few great religious institutions to openly recognize a need for (and then to enact) sweeping change on multiple levels. It's not easy to change the course of an institution that large; Vatican 3, whenever it happens, will face exponentially larger challenges.


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Sunday, June 22, 2008

Lisa takes the pic of me and Brother Luke (a fellow half-Korean!)

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dinner companions: Lisa, Matt, [Nick??], and Brother Luke

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church interior (is this St. Martin?)

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what biblical moment is this (not a quiz: I honestly don't know)?

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the Flood story (SMAC door panel)

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a scene made famous by Chagall: the expulsion from Paradise

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these magnificent church doors depict biblical scenes

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St. Martin's Abbey Church entrance

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St. Martin's Abbey Church rock (SMACR... smacker?)

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St. Martin's Abbey Church (wide shot)

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access road in front of the church

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a rabbit keeps St. Benedict company on his eternal contemplative stroll

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5PM vespers and dinner

At the invitation of Father Paul, I'll be attending 5 o'clock vespers, then heading over for the evening meal at 5:30.


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a closer look at the crucifix by my bed (note piercing thru wrists, not palms, of the corpus)

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belated shout-out to Edgar and Tammy

Yesterday, somewhere close to Lakewood, I passed a bus stop where two people, a man and a woman, were waiting. The man commented that I looked like I was going on a long trip, which gave me a chance to explain what I've been doing.

Turns out the man's name was Edgar; the woman's was Tammy, and they didn't know each other. Edgar was a cheerful nut; he told me about his various motorcycle accidents and about how his right knee was, as a result, filled with screws.

Tammy was quieter; she listened to Edgar's motorcycle war stories and told me to be careful. I thanked them both for the chance to talk with them and went on my way, kicking myself later on for not having taken their picture or given them my blog's URL. They won't see this tribute, alas, but they get the shout-out all the same.


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my room seen from the north corner

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my room seen from the west corner

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my room seen from the south corner

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my room seen from the east corner

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first peek into my quarters for the next four nights

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a look down the hallway of the guest house

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approach to guest house front door

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statue of Saint Benedict (the raven on his shoulder is a giveaway; the story goes that a raven saved him by snatching away some poisoned bread)

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guest house (zoom)

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the guest house, seen from afar (tiny building in center of pic)

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a glimpse down the entrance road

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the sign that greets you at SMU's entrance

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teriyaki!

I'm sitting in the patio section of a teriyaki house in Lacey, Washington called Happy Teriyaki 3. I don't know what happened to versions 1 and 2, but I'm assuming the third time's a charm. In the spirit of three-ness, I ordered three items: a pair of egg rolls, a "happy trio" teriyaki bowl, and a Coke.

The "happy trio" represents a threeness nestled within the larger threeness, though I'm a bit confused as to what the trio consists of. I had initially thought I would be receiving a trio of meats-- beef, chicken, and pork or seafood-- but the only meat in the bowl was chicken. Along with the chicken were two fried gyoza (Kor. mandu), fried rice, and some stir-fried vegetables, primarily cabbage and sliced carrots. So: chicken, rice, gyoza, veggies. What's the happy trio? I'll have to ask.

A quick and dirty demographic survey of the visible staff showed that this particular teriyaki joint does not appear to be run by and for Koreans. There is no Hangeul in evidence anywhere, and only one employee is obviously East Asian. So why the preponderance of teriyaki houses if not for the Koreans? Perhaps teriyaki is popular in the region for historical reasons, à la Snow Falling On Cedars. I think Paul may have addressed this issue in a comment to a previous post.

Right... time to finish off the Coke and lumber-waddle two blocks to the uni.


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belated plug for Rico

Rico S., my host for two nights in Kent, is a sci-fi/fantasy buff who manages a website called Worlds Without End. The site serves primarily as a reference source for people who wish to track down award-winning sci-fi/fantasy authors' works. Searches can be done according to a wide variety of parameters. If you're interested in these popular genres, why not give Rico's site a whirl?


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in Lacey

I'm in Lacey; arrived late last night. Am heading off to lunch and then to the abbey, so I can't write more now, but I do have to discuss one major mental shift I've made as the practical realities of this walk continue to sink in.

Stay tuned.


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