Wednesday, April 8, 2009

mutant charoset

A slightly early Happy Pesach if you're Jewish (it actually begins at sundown on Wednesday)! I'm planning on going nuts by making a batch of charoset-- not because I'll be attending a Passover Seder, but because a Jewish coworker of mine, back when I worked at APIC from 1998 to 2001, brought some charoset into the office and got me hooked on it.

There are approximately 3.29 trillion different recipes for charoset (a word whose romanized spelling also seems to vary widely). You can see a few here. What I have done-- and plan to do-- probably doesn't qualify as true charoset, if for no other reason than that I won't be purchasing Passover wine, but will instead rely on whatever alcohol is currently sitting around the house, being consumed by no one (my parents and I don't drink, and Mom sips wine only on extremely rare occasions).

Charoset, according to the above-linked site, symbolizes the brick mortar made and used by the Hebrews during their time of slavery under Pharaoh. It generally has a rough, mortar-y look and feel to it, but it tastes fan-damn-tastic, which is why I suspect my Jewish friends and acquaintances are cheating every time they say they're remembering a bitter time in history-- they should stick exclusively to the consumption of bitter herbs and vinegar.

Anyway, I won't even pretend that what I'm going to make qualifies as true charoset. I simply like the general combination of nuts, fruit, honey, and certain spices or seasonings (wine optional). When I say "charoset," what I'm really saying is "inspired by charoset." A charoset tribute, if you will.

So I know you're wondering: how do we make this bad boy?

Very roughly pulse-chop in a food processor (make pebbles, not sand grains):

cashews
almonds
peanuts
walnuts

Mince or rough-chop:

raisins
pitted dates
figs
dried apple

The nuts should be in roughly equal portions. The fruits should also be in roughly equal portions. The amount of fruits and nuts should also be roughly equal.

Take all the above, once prepped, and combine. Add (to taste):

honey
wine
powdered ginger
chili powder


The red pepper was something I learned about from my coworker, who had brought in several kinds of charoset, including a spicy variety. If I'm not mistaken, the idea of adding fire to the charoset is Yemeni, though I suppose there might be other types of spicy charoset. You don't add much red pepper-- you need only enough chili powder to give the mix a slight but palpable kick.

In the past, I've made charoset by boiling the dry fruit for a minute or so, draining it, then blending it almost smooth in a food processor, leaving it up to the nuts to provide any chunkiness. Not this time! This time, I want the whole thing to be as chunky as possible. So I'll pulse-chop the nuts, use a knife on the dried fruits, and reduce any boiling (NB: many charoset recipes call for fresh fruit, with nothing boiled or otherwise heated) to about 45 seconds, just to achieve a slight softening of things like dates, which can be stiff and grouchy. The honey, wine, ginger, and chili powder will still be drizzled or sprinkled to taste.

The mixture won't look pretty, but I'm counting on it tasting very good, especially atop some matzo crackers. If I remember in time, I'll provide a photo of the results of my labor.


_

3 comments:

melancholy donut said...

how do you eat charoset? do you use a knife and spread it on matzo or do you pick it up with your fingers? sounds positively yummy!

Kevin Kim said...

How do you eat it? Very carefully.

No, seriously-- the guy who introduced me to it had packed his leftover charoset in plastic containers, and was simply spooning it into his mouth like cereal.

I suspect that, during the actual Seder, charoset is served in a bowl or on a plate, and is spooned in modest portions (the Seder isn't the moment to give in to gluttony; I can imagine some Buddhist monks nodding vigorously in agreement) onto matzo crackers and eaten that way. The result is somewhat dry-- mainly because matzo is so dry, but also because charoset isn't exactly juicy. Nevertheless, each mouthful is very flavorful, and I find the Gestalt addictive.


Kevin

Elisson said...

That's a fine Sephardic-style charoset... we've tried similar recipes, but we always go back to the Ashkenazic (eastern European) version we grew up with: grated Granny Smith apples, chopped pecans or walnuts, raisins, moistened with sweet Concord grape wine.

Charoset isn't supposed to be bitter, but it is eaten with bitter herbs and matzoh. Not only is it symbolic of the mortar used to build Pharaoh's cities, but it reminds us that no matter how bitter life is, there is always some sweetness as well.

We usually make a pile of it. One year, we had enough left over to use as pie filling. A Charoset Pie! - it's almost as perverse as a Passover ham... but it was tasty.