Friday was a pretty full day. I left Kyle and Amanda's house around 8AM and walked a few miles before pausing to write the earlier thank-you entry. I ended up walking all the way to the Hat Rock campground, where I stopped to eat lunch and refill my water containers. The walk in to the "store and grill," which follows Hat Rock Road inward from 730, is a bit less than a mile; while walking back out, I ran into Chuck and Lori, who were in their truck and trying to track me down to see whether I had made it all the way to Sand Station. Had I walked that far, it would have been around fifteen miles. Having walked into Hat Rock State Park and partway back out, I'd guess I walked close to fourteen miles.
Chuck and Lori drove me to Sand Station and told me they'd be willing to keep hosting me at their home, dropping me off each morning so I could walk successive segments to Walla Walla, and picking me up wherever I decided to finish for the day. I thought it'd be a good idea to take this opportunity; one never knows when such generosity might recur down the line.
So we went back to Irrigon. Lori told me that a friend of hers, a professional massage therapist named Marti, was offering me a free session across the river in Tri-Cities; we had also received a dinner proposal from Amanda, who thought we all could meet in Tri-Cities along with Kyle and his mother, who was purportedly interested in meeting me.
Lori did my laundry while I showered and de-funkified myself. When my pants and socks were sufficiently dry, Chuck, Lori, and I piled into an SUV belonging to their daughter and headed across the river to Tri-Cities.
The massage therapy session at Tranquil Waters lasted about an hour and was focused entirely on my right leg. Marti employed a gamut of gentle but firm techniques to my knee and ankle while calming music played in the background. I nearly fell asleep at least twice; at one point I caught myself in mid-snore.
Marti told me that she had found at least two problems:
1. A patellar tracking problem. This refers to how the kneecap (the patella) is supposed to move over the femoral and tibial bones of the knee joint. According to her, my kneecap doesn't roll properly along the bone grooves. She recommended a set of leg exercises to help counteract the problem.
2. An ankle flexibilty problem. It seems my right ankle is unusually inflexible, which may be affecting how the foot rolls on both even and uneven surfaces. Marti recommended a battery of stretching exercises, to be performed at least twice daily.
I thanked Marti for her generosity (the session was indeed free), and we drove over to a Mexican restaurant where I had the pleasure of meeting Kyle's parents, as well as two friends of theirs. Kyle and Amanda arrived not long after we had all settled, and Kyle's mother peppered me with questions while we all chowed down. Amanda very thoughtfully gave me a Dry Pak, which is a waterproof container for one's cell phone-- something I've been needing for a while.
Kyle's mother was concerned about my knee, so as we left the restaurant, she did a "laying-on of hands" for it, in which she put her hand atop my knee and prayed for its healing. We don't normally do such things in my church, but I certainly appreciated the gesture.
While Chuck, Lori, and I drove home, we discussed my itinerary to Walla Walla. Earlier in the day, I had resolved to try to walk 25 miles on Saturday; Chuck would (1) drop me off at the beginning of the walk (somewhere by Sand Station), (2) visit me at about the halfway point with fresh water, and (3) visit me again at the very end in order to make me back to Irrigon for the night. Assuming I can walk 25 miles both Saturday and Sunday, I can make Walla Walla on Sunday afternoon.
So that's the plan. Wish me luck... and my sincere thanks to all the people who are helping me in some way or other, as well as to the people I had a chance to meet Friday evening.
_
Saturday, August 30, 2008
a full day
Friday, August 29, 2008
thanks, guys
A big thank-you to Amanda and Kyle for hosting me last night.
A and K are a young couple who'll be moving into a new house soon; they've got two happy dogs, Jack and Elle (Jack spent a good part of yesterday evening licking the salt off my right forearm*), and many stories to tell.
I think I was an overly talkative guest, though: we went on for about four hours, covering topics ranging from abortion to homosexuality to racism to jobs to teaching abroad (Amanda has taught in both China and Georgia [the country]) to differences between Assembly of God, PCUSA (my denomination), various types of Buddhism, etc.
One side effect of all the religion-speak was that at least one dog fell asleep. I, on the other hand, had a great time listening to the sound of my own voice. What a blowhard. A and K have interesting religious backgrounds; Kyle is a former Assembly of God member; if I'm not mistaken, he and Amanda are now Seventh Day Adventist (or am I still mixing you guys up with Becky in Walla Walla? this might be an idée fixe).
I didn't get to see Kyle's mother, who is apparently interested in meeting me, but we might all be getting together at some point along the way to Walla Walla.
My thanks, once again, to A and K for their hospitality, and also for their patience with the fact that, for a long time, I couldn't give them definite arrival dates. I hope we all keep in touch.
*Man... talk about a sentence that can be taken out of context.
_
Thursday, August 28, 2008
pleasant surprises
My overnight stay with Lori and Chuck was the result of a command decision by Amanda in Umatilla, something of a freak accident from my all-too-human point of view, but it's yielded some unexpected fruit (Chuck, by the way, says there are no accidents).
First, I think I've made two more friends. Chuck and Lori were cool and relaxed from the beginning, and keenly interested in my project. While we have many differences (e.g., what the heck do I know about biker culture?), we share an interest in religious matters and, dare I say it, a desire to live deeply.
Lori, it turns out, runs a women's ministry, which I think is great. She and I had a far-ranging talk about life, the universe, and everything, and it became clear that she is a passionately giving person; I admire her dedication to the service of those in need.
Chuck, for his part, has offered to be my chase car (well, chase bike) to and from Walla Walla, which will allow me to make better time to the city. He also took my backpack off my hands this morning, allowing me to walk to Umatilla unencumbered, which came as a great relief (you'll recall that Dave Underwood did something similar for me in Centralia, WA).
Well, Chuck's good-heartedness apparently knows no bounds, because he also rumbled up to me on his Harley and gave me one of his old leg braces ("I've had four knee operations," he said)-- one of those reinforced braces with metal joints on either side of it.
The difference to my leg was like night and day. No joke. For the first hour after I put the brace on, I was walking full-speed down the road. The pain eventually began to creep back, but at nothing like the level it had been at earlier in the morning. I made steady progress to Umatilla, first along the comfortably sandy Heritage Trail, then along 730 again when the trail became too overgrown. (That was where Chuck found me hobbling along.)
Later in the afternoon, Chuck and Lori met me at G and J, a burger joint in Umatilla. Chuck had stuck my pack in a cycle trailer and had left the trailer at the home of Kyle and Amanda, my Thursday night hosts. The plan is for me to walk about fifteen miles to a campground just beyond Hat Rock (Sandy Station, if I remember correctly), and I'll call Chuck in the afternoon and ask him to tow my pack from Umatilla to the campground. Lather, rinse, repeat: Chuck says he's willing to help out over the weekend to get me to Walla Walla, and if I need to go back south to I-84 on a weekend, he'll drive my stuff back to I-84 to help speed me on my way.
Amazing. Humbling. I'm very thankful.
_
arrived, arrove, arriven
I made it to Irrigon much earlier than expected; the 12.2 miles flew by, if limping qualifies as flying. I didn't meet Lori and Chuck right away; they were out, but their good friend Gennie (I know the spelling thanks to a text message from Amanda) was house-sitting, and she let me in. Very nice lady.
Lori and Chuck arrived a couple hours later, rumbling in on their bikes. They're as open and friendly as advertised (thanks, Amanda!); we've already had some interesting conversation.
Chuck brought reality crashing down on me, though: in his opinion, I should simply stick to I-84. "Lewiston sucks," he said in reference to the weather. "And I guarantee that by the time you hit Missoula, there's gonna be snow." (Yes, he's talking about October.) Further harshing my mellow, Chuck also noted that Route 12 past Lewiston goes up and down a lot, is generally a high-altitude route, and is serious bear country.*
So it looks as though I've got some rethinking to do if I decide to head south. Will this mean canceling on Walla Walla entirely? Poor Becky... she's been prepping for my arrival. And what about Dad and the chase car? Will I be postponing dad's trip west until I hit a barren patch in, say, Wyoming? Or will anyone in my vast (cough) readership be able to do a bit of "chase carring" for a few days? I may be getting to a point where the only way forward will be with the help of a chase car.
Chuck's idea for a southward route brings Salt Lake City back into the picture; we at Kevin's Walk have been going back and forth about this city since at least Seattle, I think; my manager Alan's recently emailed list of possible routes included SLC as well.
So there's plenty to ponder, and it all has to be pondered quickly. Meanwhile, it's time to rest. I'm bizarrely proud that I made it through the day on a single ibuprofen tablet; tomorrow's walk to Umatilla promises to be short, so here's hoping I'll need only one tablet again.
Many thanks to Lori and Chuck (both now asleep) for their hospitality, especially on such short notice. See y'all at 6AM.
(A reminder to readers that this blog's time and date stamps are still set for Eastern time; subtract three hours for Oregon time.)
*Note to Dad: Chuck also gave a much smaller mileage figure for the Lewiston-Missoula route-- around 100 miles shorter.
_
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
the trudge
I left late this morning because I had to wait at the pharmacy for my prescription to be filled (90 800mg tablets of ibuprofen-- take one tablet at a time, no more than three times per day; it's actually cheaper than buying even the house brand ibuprofen), and the pharmacy, while not far off, was nonetheless across town from where I was, which made for a few minutes' extra gimping.
Amanda, my CS host in Umatilla, very kindly sent me the address of the folks who will be taking me in today (thanks, Lori and Chuck); at the rate I'm going, which must be barely two miles per hour, I suspect I'll be arriving in the evening. I'm about a mile or so onto Route 730, and a little less than seven miles from my destination. At a healthy clip, I could be there by 4 or 5PM; as things are, I'm guessing significantly later-- say, 7PM.
I did something I haven't done in a while: I used MapQuest to plot my route. This was prompted by my irritation with Google Maps, whose route calculator inevitably displays longer routes than does MapQuest. GM kept telling me that today's walk would be around 16 miles, but that didn't seem at all correct when I looked at my large map. My own guesstimation was about 12 miles, and when I ran the starting and ending points through MQ, that's what I got.
But in plotting the path toward Route 730, MQ routed me through the back roads, not along Route 84. Shrugging, I decided to follow MQ's suggestion, going from Main Street, where my motel was (and where I saw that "I love me" graffito on the bike path), to Wilson Lane, which runs straight a little over three miles until you reach Bombing Range Road (not a random designation: there really is a bombing range here), which leads right to the I-84/30/730 junction..
While Wilson is a quiet, two-lane road, it's also a farming and residential zone, which means dogs. I had a scare today when, while passing one residence, three large dogs followed me along their fence until there was no fence, at which point they all ran toward me. I didn't raise my voice or make any sudden movements; I merely continued to walk along without making eye contact with the animals. There was a moment where I felt that matters might have spiraled out of control had I done anything rash, but luckily, nothing happened. The dogs rushed up to me on the street, barked a bit, then retreated to their property as I passed beyond their territory.
Sometimes the creepiest dog encounters involve silent dogs-- the ones that stare alertly at you, sometimes relaxed, sometimes in a posture of readiness. That also happened today when I passed a different residence: a little dachshund, leashed to a tree, began yapping away at me. Thanks to experience, my eyes swept the property for another dog, and there it was, way back from the main road: a huge German shepherd sitting on the gravel driveway, still as a statue, ears up and directed my way. I thanked my lucky stars that it wasn't moving, but that focused stillness gave me the willies.
I'm sitting on a dirt road by a huge field of... something, just off Route 730 and out of sight of traffic. The wind and sun today make for an exhilarating combination, and 730's shoulders have thus far been wide enough to make me feel I don't need to dodge traffic. I'm resting my knee, but will get up in a few minutes and plod on. I really don't have far to go, but it's going to take a while.
Slow and steady saves the knee.
_
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Umatilla finally within my reach (and the way forward)
I'll be leaving Boardman tomorrow morning, armed with painkillers, and marching to the town of Irrigon, a distance of about 12 miles. From there, Umatilla is less than ten miles away, so I'm hoping to stay only a single night in Irrigon.
[Note to Amanda and family: this means I'll be arriving in Umatilla this coming Thursday, probably mid- to late afternoon. Is that OK? If you prefer another weekday, that's fine with me; there are several motel and camping options in the area, including Hermiston, so I can hang back if you need me to.]
After Umatilla, my next stop will be Hat Rock State Park, which will mark my final stop in the great state of Oregon; after Hat Rock, I follow Route 730 north back into Washington, then turn east to Route 12 at Wallula Junction, and follow 12 past Touchet to Walla Walla.
I'm not sure where my next stopping point will be immediately after Hat Rock; I see nothing on any of the maps I have that lies within a 20-mile range of the state park, so I may have to play it by ear. My manager tells me there's an RV park/campground about eight miles west of Touchet on Route 12 (somewhere close to the town of Reese, I imagine; the campground's not shown on my map); I won't be able to reach it immediately, but will definitely be there the second day.
So my itinerary looks this way:
1. Boardman to Irrigon (motel)
2. Irrigon to Umatilla (CouchSurfing)
3. Umatilla to Hat Rock State Park (camping)
4. Hat Rock to unknown point in Washington (Route 730; possibly illegal camping)
5. Unknown point to campground at or near Reese, WA (camping)
6. Campground to Touchet (likely a motel)
7. Touchet to Walla Walla (CouchSurfing)
After Walla Walla, it's a matter of following Route 12 to Lewiston, Idaho and beyond. Route 12 will, in fact, be my companion for the next 400 miles; it's about 125 miles along 12 from Walla Walla to Lewiston, and around 275 miles (give or take) from Lewiston to Missoula, where I hope to hit the University of Montana in full academic swing (I imagine the semester's already under way). My father will be my guardian angel during the Lewiston-Missoula leg of the trek; he'll be helping me get through the narrow part of the Rockies.
I hope that answers questions for those who've been wanting to know what my path ahead is going to be. Beyond Missoula, I'm not sure yet how things will go, but the path through the Rockies is essentially a 275-mile sprint, just to get me through that distance. With Dad in the chase car, I'll have supplies and a place to stash most of my gear so I can travel light and make better progress than I have thus far.
So by the time I hit Missoula, I'll have logged approximately 280 + 164 + 400 = 844 miles. Let's just round that down to "over 800 miles," pending more precise calculations. And that, in turn, would seem to put me almost a fourth of the way across the country, though I won't really know if that's true until I know exactly how far I'll have walked.
_
Monday, August 25, 2008
able to walk (more or less)
I took six aspirin last night and feel a lot better this morning. Not only had I gone to bed with stiff muscles and a screaming knee, but I also had a slight fever and a runny nose-- very possibly my first cold of the Walk. Whatever it was, it was mostly gone by this morning, though I don't think I got more than four hours' sleep.
I'm doing laundry right now; clothes are drying. Once they're done cooking, I need to hobble off to the local Wal-Mart (I thought I saw a sign for one) and buy my ibuprofen and water purifying tablets (if the store's outdoor sports section carries them).
One thing this pain has taught me is never to take a simple thing like walking for granted. While I repeatedly learn-- and forget-- this lesson whenever I stub my toe or bark a shin, I'm now in pain so frequently and for such long durations that I'm pretty sure the wisdom will be burned indelibly into my psyche.
I don't want to give you the impression that I'm in agony, however. I'm not. While the pain did get bad enough last night to make me, at one point, afraid to get out of bed, I'm not down for the count. I imagine that I'll be ready to hit the road again by tomorrow morning.
What worries me, though, is this "one day's walking, two days' resting" business. I'm hoping that, when I start my trek through Idaho and beyond, my knee will have a chance to heal while it's unencumbered. My father's going to be the chase car operator, helping me through the Rockies, which means I won't be carrying much with me during that segment of the walk-- just some water, fall/winter clothing, bear spray, a knife, and little else. During that time, I'm counting on going faster and with little if any pain.
A few of us are discussing the route from Lewiston. After hearing several possibilities from my father and from Alan (many thanks to Alan's brother as well), I'm leaning toward Route 12 again. This will mean a mostly isolated 270-mile stretch that will get me out of the Rockies more quickly than other routes might. Because I'll simply be walking the route and not zigzagging among different towns, I might be able to do the entire stretch in two to three weeks (this assumes some 15- and 20-mile days along with 10-mile days). By the end of that stretch, I'll have logged at least 850 miles since beginning in Canada.
That reminds me: an article about George Martin's walk says he averaged 22 miles per day... but the walk took him around nine months to complete and was almost exactly 3000 miles. If so, that's about 333 miles per month, or a little over ten miles per day. While I'm averaging less than that right now, I don't feel so bad about taking it slowly.
_
not 12 miles
The walk from the Exit 151 campground (two days' camping for FREE!) to the town of Boardman (Exit 164) was a bit more than thirteen miles. Most of the walk actually went quite well for me: since my week-long stay in Arlington, I'm back to using two trekking poles, and like a Venetian gondoliere, I use the poles to push myself along at a faster pace than I can muster without them.
So I was able to maintain a decent clip for most of the distance, but I did have to rest three times-- twice for about forty minutes, and the final time (at the Mile 161 rest stop) for about an hour.
I lost $1.50 in one of the rest stop vending machines; not having eaten a bite in nearly three days, I had punched "F8" in the hopes of getting a danish. The coil in which the danish was trapped obediently rotated to let my prize out... the danish tipped forward... and then it stopped in mid-lean like a fearful diver. I stared, exasperated but unsurprised, at my quarry. The vending machine was shielded by an enormous blue cage to prevent exactly the sort of violence I was thinking of unleashing; because of the cage and because I was in a public space, I simply walked away.
Strangely enough, when I checked the machine almost an hour later, no one had come by to claim the danish. Had they put in their own $1.50, they might have gotten two pastries for their trouble.
The sight of Exit 164, Boardman, came as a relief. It had been a long, hot day of rushing cars, honking trucks, and little brown grasshoppers leap-flying everywhere. My knee was holding up, but I could feel that it wasn't going to last much longer, and I knew that after two days in the bush I wanted a motel.
The town has at least three motels; two are on the side of the exit closer to the river, and the third is on the opposite side (to the right, from my eastbound perspective). I called the front desk of one of the riverward motels; they were full up. Not seeing many vehicles at the nearer hotel, the one on the right, I limped over to it and booked a room for two nights. At 50-some dollars, it's not a bad deal.
All my clothes are in desperate need of laundering, but I'll take care of that in the morning. Tonight, it's all about resting the knee, which after two hours became so painful that I could barely put any weight on it. Funny how it was obedient all day, but let go as soon as I stopped walking.
So, tomorrow: laundry, painkillers, get a new grill lighter, see whether the town has a sporting goods shop, and perhaps grab a decent meal. I limped over to the nearest Shell station earlier in the evening and got two microwaveable burritos, but I think I'll scarf down some real food tomorrow.
A word about water treatment: despite precautions, I think some surviving microorganisms got happy in the Sunday heat: toward the end of the walk to Boardman, my stomach was starting to feel funny from swallowing the filtered river water in my Camelbak. Perhaps I should have invested in a UV Steri-Pen (earlier, I noted why I decided against it), but a cheaper solution may be, as one commenter suggested, to go with chlorine or iodine tablets. I remember using iodine tabs in Switzerland; they make the water taste horrible, but probably do kill all the critters.
Now I need to take a fistful of aspirin and get to bed. It's after 2AM, and I have to wake up before housekeeping barges in.
_
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Saturday, August 23, 2008
parting thought
I'm about to retire to my tent (it's cooler now, so the tent won't be a sweatbox, and once I'm in the tent I won't have to slather on all that anti-bug crap), but I wanted to make a quick remark about Obama's choice of Joe Biden as running mate, a move that appears to be garnering Big O some flak from both sides of the aisle.
What boggles my mind is that there are still people out there who think Hillary would have made a better choice. Such people have lost touch with reality: Hillary Clinton would have been the kiss of death for the Dems. I say that as a disinterested party, being neither liberal nor conservative.
The GOP has been in disarray since at least 2006 if not before; it's one of the reasons why they ended up with presumptive nominee John McCain and not a more classically conservative Republican like Fred Thompson. The common wisdom (and this is subscribed to by many of the saner Democrats) has been that to bring Hillary into the fray would be to hand the Republicans the perfect target on which to focus their energy. I think this is still true; Hillary-as-veep would sink Obama's chances far more quickly and decisively than almost any other Democrat choice. Hillary would bring not only her own baggage, but also that of her scene-stealing husband.
Conservative remarks about Biden have been along the lines of "Ha! He's not far removed from McCain on foreign policy!" and "Biden represents the status quo, not change!" If that's the best the GOP attack machine can muster, then I'd say Biden's a good, solid choice. If we read between the lines, the implication seems to be that Biden will serve as a complement to Obama's idealism and very liberal voting record. How is that a bad thing?
Now I'll be morbidly curious to see whom McCain picks. Many GOPers see McCain as too, well, liberal for their tastes, which is why I think Fred Thompson might actually be a good complement for him.
_
lazy Saturday
It's been a fairly quiet, fairly lazy Saturday. The major issues for today revolved around doing laundry (I decided against it), purifying water (done, but will do it again this evening), recording some video segments for my long un-updated YouTube channel (done), and setting up some sort of shade close to camp to allow me to endure the 92-degree heat (done).
Being alone like this is unbelievably refreshing, though I'm not particularly tempted to cavort naked through the scrub. I still get visits from the occasional pickup truck; more and more, I suspect the people aren't fishermen so much as randy couples looking for a make-out spot, which is why they flee: what would fishermen have to fear from me? Speaking of fish, there are some huge specimens in this river, and they swim right up to the riverbank. I almost wish I had a fishing pole.
The solar charger has been doing yeoman's work for me; I finally realized that the secret to getting a lot of charge is to keep the BlackBerry off while it's loading up on the charger's stored power (duh). When I'm in a motel room, I normally charge the phone and use it at the same time, which creates the illusion that the phone charges rapidly even when being used. In reality, a wall socket practically pours electricity into the BlackBerry whereas the solar charger can only manage a trickle. This is why the phone needs to be off.
Even though I've been resting for much of the day, I'm fairly achy. I'm glad that tomorrow's walk will be only about twelve miles; managing more than that would be problematic.
So far today, the most exciting event was my encounter with the black widow in my backpack. I tried to take a picture of the spider, but I'm not sure whether I got a clear shot. I ended up chasing it down and killing it, because I can't afford to have something that dangerous crawling into my tent or my other possessions.
So that's the update for now. Gonna turn the phone back off and let it recharge some more now.
Cheers.
_
alone at last
It took forever on a knee that protested painfully and threatened to buckle at several points, but I finally made it to the old Army Corps of Engineers campground at Exit 151.
Somewhere during the final few miles of the walk, the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge finally seemed to peter out, and I found myself walking that last stretch on perfectly flat road, with water to the left of me, flatlands to the right, and a big, beautiful sky above.
The portion of Exit 151 that curved toward the river also dipped and passed beneath the ubiquitous railroad track. The road quickly transitioned from paved to unpaved, and I walked into a wide-open area filled with sagebrush and scrub vegetation. Along the road were signs proclaiming the area a SAFETY ZONE: HUNTING PROHIBITED. No one was there, but another sign, reminding sturgeon anglers that keeping sturgeon was also prohibited, indicated that this was a place for fishin' folk. Later in the evening a few pickups drove tentatively toward my spot, then turned around.
I spotted a decent campsite (nothing is marked as such, but my map lists this as a public campground) and went to it. Aching from the day, I creakily set about the task of putting up the new Big Agnes tent. It took a while; the soil here is rocky, making it difficult to find a soft "fontanelle" into which to drive a tent spike (I hope I didn't just scare off any new mothers).
I had marvelled, early on, at how few critters were about, but once the sun had sunk below the horizon, the beasties made themselves known. Luckily, my REI-bought Jungle Juice and AfterBite were enough to handle the situation.
Aside from setting up the tent, my other major task was to see whether my filtration system would work. I gathered the various items and lined them up:
1. A gallon jug for collecting river water, later fitted with a rinsed antibacterial wipe that would be elastic-banded over the jug's mouth, folded to create a double layer, to serve as the first filter.
2. A 1-liter soda bottle fitted with cotton balls and another double-layer of antibacterial wipe material (rinsed to remove the alcohol flavor); the first major filter in the process, and one that would use two types of filtration (cotton plus fiber sheet).
3. A Brita pitcher that would, I hoped, strain out over 90% of the remaining impurities before passing on to the final stage:
4. A Katadyn pump filter that would deliver the coup de grâce (pronounced "grahss," not "graah," by the way) to whatever microorganisms might be left over. The pump houses a carbon filter cartridge similar to the Brita's; it also has a filter on the tube attachment that goes into the unfiltered water. In essence, the river water would be passing through five filters.
To make an already-long story short: I went to the water, fetched a little over a liter of it from the shallows (I would have had to wade into the water to be able to dunk and fill the jug completely), brought my catch back to the campsite, and put it through the filtration process.
Result: very drinkable water. Everything seems to have worked perfectly, although the Brita cartidge needed another rinse-through before it stopped producing black water. Brita cartidges aren't really designed for the bumping and shifting that come with being strapped to a backpack; this, I can tell, is an issue that merits a long-term solution.
The water must really be all right: I drank a half-liter about an hour ago and am in my tent-- no barfing, cramps, or projectile diarrhea, which is a very good thing. We'll see how I am in the morning.
I plan to spend another night here to give my poor, beleaguered knee a chance to rest, and then I schlep onward to Boardman, where I may have a choice between motels and a campground.
_
Friday, August 22, 2008
good news about Idaho
I just called the Bicycle and Pedestrian Planning Division of the Idaho Department of Transportation and was told that, yes, it's legal to walk Idaho's freeways.
A load off my mind.
_
Olympic naughtiness
I'm heading out rather late this morning, but wanted to note this hilarious article about Olympic athletes gettin' it on. The remarks about British behavior during the Seoul Olympics (1988) had me chuckling.
_
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Florida under siege
Here's hoping that all you folks in Florida are able to weather the current storms with minimal damage to property, and if the storms are too severe to endure, here's hoping you're able to clear out safely and return home as quickly as possible.
_
where we go from here
I move on tomorrow, whether or not the knee's ready. Commenters and emailers have, with increasing frequency, been asking me whether I might switch to biking or some other way of crossing the country if my knee gets too bad. I'll think about it; if this walk has taught me nothing else, it's "Never say never." I suppose changing the name to "Kevin's Roll" is better than changing it to "Kevin's Gimp."
I'll be hiking to a campground by Exit 151, and will stay there a night or two. From there, I'll move on to Boardman (Exit 164), where a campground lies about 13 or so miles from the Exit 151 camp. Here, too, it'll be one or two nights; I'll likely purchase my painkillers while there.
Boardman puts me at about two days' walk to Umatilla, nearly 24 miles away (I'm not sure I should try 24 miles in a single day). Once in Umatilla, CS host Amanda and her hubby will take me in for a night or more (if Amanda's mother-in-law has anything to say about the situation, it'll be "or more": the MIL apparently wants to meet me).
Walking from Umatilla to Walla Walla puts me first on Route 730, then on Route 12. After Umatilla, I'll spend a night at Hat Rock State Park, after which I'll be passing through the Washingtonian towns of Fort Kelley, Wallula Junction, Reese, Touchet, Lowden, and finally Walla Walla. If anyone knows of places to stay or camp along that route, please tell me.
_
moral dogs
This interesting article talks a bit about research that might imply that dogs have developed a rudimentary sense of morality over the millennia of their interaction with humans. One of the more intriguing facts mentioned in the piece is that, as dogs evolved from wolves, their brains shrank. Did their insertion into a lower rung of the human dominance hierarchy produce a submissiveness that eventually resulted in such shrinkage? The article doesn't say.
Dog owners often see their pets as possessors of distinct personalities (I'd agree), and would probably claim that their pets also possess discernibly moral traits such as kindness, empathy, and even altruism. You hear stories, now and again, about dogs that have saved their owners at great risk to themselves. Whether the sum total of these anecdotes constitutes evidence of canine morality is debatable, but at the very least worthy of scrutiny.
Calling Dr. Pinker...
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backpack meditations
"Where ya' headed?" is the most common question I get when accosted by strangers on the road. They see the backpack and trekking pole, and immediately realize that this burly, blubbery guy is Doing Something Important. I've finally trained myself to answer "The east coast!" whenever I hear this question; for the longest time, I'd been saying "DC" or "Alexandria," even though I don't yet know what my eventual destination will be; I only know that the walk will end when I reach the Atlantic.
Whenever I hit a campsite or motel, however, it's a different story: no one has any questions for me after I shed the backpack and start to stroll around town. Deprived of my portable shelter, I return to Joe Normalcy and reenter the realm of the incurious, which goes to show that this whole notion of "projecting an aura" is bogus: I obviously don't wear my 400 miles on my sleeve.
The backpack, my faithful Gregory brand (my previous pack was also a Gregory, and it was nice to see my brand loyalty vindicated by the likes of hiking guru Colin Fletcher, who swears by the brand), is the largest size available; when it's on my back, it's impossible to ignore. This is also true at the olfactory level, too; after all the sweat I've oozed into the harness, it's a very stinky piece of equipment.
It's strange to think about how our clothing and accessories affect others' perceptions of us; our external traits often announce what place we occupy in society. These traits would include hairstyles, jewelry, tattoos, and other indicators of who we are. A backpack and trekking pole scream "traveler!" to the world-- very different from shambling about in a pile of sweat- and urine-smelling rags, despite the often-distressing similarity in smell between the traveler and the homeless person. In Korea, when you see an older gent wearing a traditional white hanbok and sporting a beard, you'd be justified in guessing that he's an artist; most modern Korean men are clean-shaven, but the artist's beard functions almost like an emblem of his trade. In the US, who can blame you for looking at a kid who dresses in Goth style and surmising that this person is probably a mixed bag of gloomy narcissism and death-obsession?
So even though we Westerners are told not to judge a book by its cover, the fact is that the cover is often-- very often-- a faithful reflection of the content, despite not being the whole story.
Confucianism got a bad rap (mainly from Taoists) for supposedly placing too much emphasis on externals, but this sort of pompous superficiality wasn't what Confucius was after. For Confucius, it wasn't important to "keep up appearances"; instead, it was important to make sure that one's inner and outer realities were working in concert. In the West, we're familiar with this concept of inside-outside harmony: we call such a state integrity.
What integrity means will depend on the culture. Koreans and Americans might agree that an honest person shows her honesty through her words and actions; they might, however, disagree over the idea that "a teacher should always look the part of a teacher"-- something many Koreans strongly believe but many Americans reject, which is why a lineup of young Korean and young American university profs will look so wildly different.
Sci-fi author Barbara Hambly once formulated an interesting maxim in one of her novels: "Be what you wish to seem." This was one of Hambly's more coherent turns of phrase (I'm not a big fan of hers), and it's stayed with me for years, perhaps because it's such a concise and profound formulation of what integrity boils down to.*
Unfortunately, both "guilt" and "shame" cultures** have gravitated toward the "keeping up appearances" end of the spectrum; in politics and religion, for example, tearful repentance is only for those who get caught in the act. Look at American televangelist Jimmy Swaggart and Korean scientist Hwang Woo-seok.
Ancient cultures often linked human integrity to the natural order, something of an extension of the anthropocentric "inner/outer harmony" concept. Hindus took sacrifice very seriously as a means of world-maintenance, for example; human rituals (and the proper state of mind while performing them) helped keep dharma from slipping into adharma. The ancient Chinese believed there existed an intimate connection between the integrity of a ruler and the will of Heaven. Even the Western notion of the "divine right" of monarchy has echoes of this linkage of the human and natural/cosmic/supernatural realms. Many stories in the Hebrew scriptures associate natural disasters with human sin-- a concept that persists to this day.***
The human brain is adept at finding patterns, and will gladly create patterns when none are to be found. The brain is also a massively parallel processor with an amazing capacity for finding and creating numerous types of associations, from sensory to thematic to abstract. All this means the brain is great at thinking analogically, which is one reason why people see similarities and/or connections between, say, one's inner and outer existence, or between the human and natural worlds.
And this is probably why people latch onto externals and makes guesses about others' internal reality: you see a guy with a huge backpack and guess that he's on a long, long journey. The problem, though, is that we have no such thoughts about the guy when he sheds the backpack and becomes Joe Normal. It's possible, then, to judge a book by its cover, but not always advisable.
I apologize that this essay has ended with such a mundane, trivial, obvious conclusion, but hey-- I never claimed to be deep.
*If someone told you not to end sentences with prepositions, they were feeding you a load of bullshit. Ancient grammar and style manuals from the 1950s and 60s might deem such a move verboten, but it's kosher in modern North American English, even at the most formal level. Consider what in linguistics is called the petrified expression-- a turn of phrase that has evolved into an unalterable chunk of verbiage. A good example is the phrasal verb "[to] put up with," which bizarrely features two prepositions, and whose elements must always be written in their original sequence. You would have to say:
This isn't something I can put up with.
and not:
This isn't something up with which I can put.
...which is simply wrong.
Because "put up with" is a petrified expression, it can't be broken up into something supposedly more proper; "...up with which I can put." Sorry, but the "up with" stays at the end of the sentence.
Quite a few antiquated ideas about proper English circulate as memes in cyberspace and meatspace. Consider the "never split an infinitive" rule, which held sway in my father's generation, but which most modern grammar and style manuals will note is no longer the cardinal sin it once was. While I personally try to avoid splitting infinitives for esthetic reasons, I won't stifle your desire to boldly go where no one has gone before.
**While a simplistic way to categorize cultures, the basic idea is that "guilt" cultures see ethics in terms of personal conscience, whereas "shame" cultures are more concerned about one's status in the eyes of others. One feels shame in front of one's peers or betters; one feels guilt even when alone, and often without regard to how others view one. There are those who characterize the modern West as largely a guilt culture, whereas many Asian and Middle Eastern countries are shame cultures.
How true or clear this distinction is is open to debate, especially when we consider how diverse and complex modern Western cultures are. After all, many people who immigrate to the West come from shame cultures and don't fully assimilate into their new home. This certainly changes the tenor of whatever guilt culture exists in the larger society, and makes it increasingly difficult to claim that "the West is a guilt culture." At best we can say, as I said before, that it's largely a guilt culture.
***This is a rich topic for discussion, as we have reached a point in our history where human activity is now the focal point of a heated debate about major changes in the environment. While I have strong opinions on this topic, I won't air them in this post.
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Wednesday, August 20, 2008
"The bodies were boiling hot."
Please keep the victims of this horrific plane disaster in your thoughts.
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mise à jour
So I visited the clinic today. The visit was brief; the upshot was that, without having an expensive MRI procedure done, the best guess is that something might be going on with a tendon-- possibly a tear, possibly not. The doc wrote me a prescription for ibuprofen, which I'll be able to purchase when I get to Boardman. She also recommended that I continue wearing the knee brace; I heartily agree.
Later in the day, my replacement tent arrived. Unlike my replacement BlackBerry, this Big Agnes tent is spanking new, not a refurbished model. As you saw in the previous picture, I set the tent up, counted the parts, played with the zippers, and checked all seams. Everything seems A-OK. Again, my thanks to Dad and to the intrepid folks at REI. You rock.
I leave Arlington on Friday, and will be walking about 14 or 15 miles to an old Army Corps of Engineers campground at Exit 151. I'll camp there for a night or two, perhaps testing out the water treatment system I've got, before moving on. Here's hoping the knee holds up.
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status update
My father tells me the new tent and footprint will be arriving on Thursday Wednesday morning. I'm tempted to give you guys the FedEx tracking number so we can all watch its progress together.
My visit to the clinic happens tomorrow at 11:15AM; the Tuesday walk-in ended simply with the scheduling of the appointment and my filling out of several medical forms. Because I'm uninsured, payment will have to be in cash: $40 for the basics, plus whatever the cost of medication will be. Not a bad deal, I figure.
I've started drawing up my Rockies list. Many of the items on the list aren't directly related to my survival, but do have something to do with other aspects of the walk.
And that's it for now, all. I'm here until Friday.
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another thank-you
My best buddy Mike read about my disaster and offered to buy me a new tent and footprint. That's an amazingly generous gesture, and I just want to thank Mike publicly.
Gracias, mi hermano.
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Tuesday, August 19, 2008
thanks, Marta!
When I strolled into Ace Hardware today, I met Marta (pictured in the previous post). She guided me to the items I wanted to buy and rang everything up, but after I told her what I was doing in town, she very nicely refunded my money and gave me a nifty "Arlington, Oregon" tee shirt-- all "for the cause," as she put it.
You never know what kindnesses may come your way.
Thanks, Marta!
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random Kevinalia
1. I'm going to lumber over to the medical clinic in the next few minutes. It'll be interesting to hear what the doc has to say. (I imagine it'll be, "No more walking for you! Ha ha!")
2. I need to wrap up and bury the corpse of my poor tent, though I'll be saving the stakes as extras (because Oregon has vampires). I wouldn't mind also saving the Y-shaped tent spine, but it was slightly bent out of shape during yesterday's attack of the air elementals.
3. I hadn't done laundry before leaving the motel last time, so after I checked myself into the motel again yesterday, I hand-washed my clothes in the motel room sink. The sink was too small for all the clothes to go in at once, so I did the washing in groups. When I did the group that contained my long pants, the sink water turned dark brown. It took me a few moments to realize how dusty the pants must have been after so much exposure to sand, dirt, and wind: even though I'd spent only one night at the campground, I'd visited it several times (which has also allowed me to rack up my "make-up miles" for the police car ride; 5 out of 8 miles made up thus far).
4. I have to draw up a list of items I'll need once I start crossing the Rockies with Dad's help as a chase car driver. I spoke with Dad about two things in particular-- my old voice recorder (which creates immediately readable sound files, unlike my current recorder) and my BlackBerry travel charger, which plugs into a car's dashboard. I need to see about having some business cards printed up, and might want to order one or two of my own CafePress tee shirts for use as a flag of sorts-- something I can tie to my backpack.
5. Speaking of recordings, I might start a series of video podcasts. I won't be able to upload the files to YouTube except when I have access to a real computer, which means that updates will happen irregularly, but something is better than nothing, methinks. The videos might give the blog a more human face, and you, the blog reader, would gain a clearer impression of things like the amazing wind in the Columbia River Gorge.
6. THIS JUST IN: It seems I'm going to get my tent replaced FOR FREE by REI! My father just called (12:25PM) with the happy news. He explained my situation to the REI folks and pointed them to my blog entry; they said I'd have to mail the old tent back to get the replacement. They can't replace the footprint since I don't have it, but this still saves me around $250. All thanks and praise to my folks and to REI! Now here's hoping I don't mangle the replacement. I doubt that even REI would show the same mercy twice.
7. I'm also going to buy a few extra bungee cords from the local hardware store; the Brita pitcher I bought is going to have to hang outside the pack, so its moving parts need to be strapped down. The pitcher is essentially a hollow piece of molded plastic, and I'm worried that it might get cracked or crushed if I packed it inside the backpack. The Katadyn pump is tough and compact, so putting it in the pack is no problem, and it goes without saying that the soda bottle, cotton balls, and rubber bands can be stuffed into the pack with little concern for their safety.
So I've got a lot to do today:
-mail off the old tent
-visit the clinic
-buy extra bungee cords
-record a video or two
-write up a "Rockies" list
Good thing the clinic, post office, and hardware store are all next to the motel!
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to the rescue!
My folks will be expediting me a new tent, and I'll be sitting tight at this motel again until the tent arrives and, we hope, the knee improves. The lady who runs the motel suggested that I hit the medical center next door; she said that the lady who runs the center charges according to one's means. As I'm currently unemployed, this might mean my visit will be very cheap. "She doesn't have an X-ray or anything," the motel manager told me, "but she's really good at what she does."
So I'll be visiting the center in the morning, and my tent ought to arrive on Wednesday. Apologies to CouchSurfer Amanda in Umatilla, who might be forgiven for giving up on me, but who has shown a great deal of patience and forbearance as my projected arrival date keeps changing.
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Monday, August 18, 2008
I am my own worst enemy
You saw the photo I took this morning of myself, face flapping fleshily in the wind like a basset hound in a speeding pickup truck. You may also have seen the pic right before it, the one of my tent flapping just as crazily in that same wind.
Well... guess what happened.
I had weighted the tent down with six or seven rocks (you might have seen some of them in the tent photo), and had left a small pile of possessions inside the tent to keep it from misbehaving. Arrangements made, I collected the items I was going to mail back to Virginia and limped over to the Arlington post office, painfully conscious of my unwashed state and inwardly sorry to whichever staffer would have to deal with me.
I mailed the items off, thereby shedding another couple pounds, and limped back across the tracks to the campsite. As I was walking up a gravel incline, I saw that another camper had established some sort of tall, wigwam-like tent down near the water on the leeward side of the finger of land on which I was camped. "Smart move," I thought to myself. Then I reached my own campsite, and...
The tent was gone.
The only thing left was my backpack, which was giving me a distinct "Hey, don't look at me," vibe.
I stood there a moment, staring in shock at the rocky space my tent had so recently occupied. Perhaps because I had passed some loiterers and wasn't ready to take responsibility for my own stupidity, I was set to blame others for my plight. It was easier to think that someone had stolen my tent and its contents, or had ripped it out of the ground for a laugh, than to believe that I hadn't secured it as well as I could have.
I snapped out of it, though; my walk thus far has been thief-free, and why on earth would someone steal a used tent in broad daylight, anyway? So my brain switched into CSI mode, and I began my survey of the disaster area, intent on recovering as much of my equipment as I could.
I found most of my tent stakes right away, and recovered all my bungee cords. At that point I noticed that the debris trail was leading back down the gravel incline, toward the marina... right where I had seen that other camper's tent. Except now I knew: that wasn't some other camper's wigwam-- it was MY BIG AGNES! (Big Agnes is the brand name.)
I shambled over to the tent and immediately saw that the fly had been torn to shreds, flayed alive like a heretic in medieval Europe. No amount of repair tape was going to patch up all those tiny holes; the tent had obviously been dragged across the ground, propelled by the wind and weighted down by the objects inside it. I looked around for the tent's footprint (what in the old days would have been called a groundcloth or groundsheet), but it was nowhere to be found. The tent's main body looked better than all the other soft parts, but scratches and tears were visible through the dust and dirt. Everything inside the tent was dirty and a bit banged up, but otherwise fine.
Slowly and deliberately, I crawled among the boulders at the water's edge, pulling in the tent fabric, collapsing the Y-shaped ridge pole (it had suffered some bending, too), organizing my dusty possessions, and thinking about what to do next.
I had already been thinking about camping an extra day; my knee is still too painful to walk on. Now that my beloved tent is dead (it was a gift from my family; longtime readers will recall that it replaced a much heavier and bulkier tarp), I'll need to get a new one.
So the current plan is to remain in Arlington and have a new tent, plus footprint, rushed to me ASAP. If I can, I hope to order only the parts I need. I still have enough stakes to function well, and the main body of the tent looks, on superficial inspection, reparable. So: I need a new tent fly and a new footprint. If I can't purchase parts, I'll have to buy an entire tent, which will set me back about $300 plus rush shipping.
You have no idea how embarrassing and infuriating this is. I knew I was in a windy spot and had just survived an extremely windy night just fine. It was only when I left things unattended that matters got out of hand. The moral of this story: When you think you've stuck on enough weight to keep your tent from flying away in strong wind, stick on at least twice as much.
It's too early to check back into the motel, so I'm frittering away my time and battery power at a picnic table in a park that's away from the water-- and, therefore, away from the worst of the wind.
I can note one positive thing, though: word of my journey has gotten around. As I was walking dejectedly back toward the motel, a trucker named Joe stopped his rig and handed me seven dollars' cash. He'd heard about my walk and wanted to help out by giving me money for a meal. I'm guessing he'd heard about me from either the motel manager or the gentleman I'd met at the RV park a few days ago. Joe wished me good luck; we shook hands, and then he went on his way. Thanks, man.
What kills me is that none of this would have happened had I stayed on that green patch of ground. I went windward because I thought I had no choice: sprinklers, remember? Although that gravelly area is large enough to hold two hundred tents (trucks often park there), most of that surface is covered in rocks too large and sharp to be safe for a tent. That's why I went to the water's edge and risked the wind-- although, come to think of it, it wasn't windy when I first got to that spot. The campsite I chose had a tent-friendly surface of sand and gravel. Little did I know just how hard the winds blow here.
Live and learn. And lose money.
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wouldn't you know it
The wind's still blowing this morning, but we did have about a two-hour lull that started a little after midnight. Unable to sleep, I left my tent around 3:30AM to head for the restroom (this is "dry" camping, whatever that means, not primitive camping; we've got restrooms). As I passed the lovely patch of ground on which I'd originally pitched my tent, I had a sudden thought, and checked for nighttime sprinkler action.
Nothing. Not a sound.
I went over to the grass and ran my fingers through a length of it, thinking the sprinklers might already have turned off.
Nothing. No moisture.
Son of a bitch.
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wind redux
Ever since the sun began its slow, ponderous squat behind the western mountains this evening, it's been windy. Very windy. I left the tent an hour or so after having taken that picture of my sweaty self, and discovered that it had gotten cooler outside than inside. I was drenched in sweat when I left the tent, but within minutes of exiting that cocoon, the wind had blown me dry.
I limped (yes, I limp pretty much everywhere now) to the gas station and greeted the dour attendant, an obese thirtysomething who, in the four or five times I've talked to him, has never once said a positive thing.
"How's it going?"
"Surviving."
"How're you doing?"
"Waitin' for the end of my shift."
"OK, man-- take care."
"Heh. I'll try."
To his credit, the guy doesn't transfer whatever bitterness he harbors in his soul to his customers. Aside from his Eyore-ish greetings and goodbyes, he's perfectly polite, though I'm not sure I'd go as far as to call him friendly.
I bought water and some djunque foude, limped back to my campsite, and had fun just sitting cross-legged on a large rock and facing into the wind.
It was as if Mother Nature were trying to make up for the miserable day she had put us through. The wind (which is still battering my tent as I type this entry) blew out of infinite lungs, playful and gusty, unswervingly from the west, doing its damnedest to uproot my tent but failing thanks to the rocks holding down my tent stakes. It was an amazing finish to an otherwise rough day.
Maybe not a finish: it's still noisy in here, and my tent seems to be reenacting moments from "The Blair Witch Project." But the tent's design is good: for all that flapping, the air in here is quite calm. I won't mind sleeping in all this racket. Not at all. I just hope the wind doesn't grow strong enough to tug the stakes out of the grip of my rocks. Not a big problem if it happens: if the stakes are uprooted, the tent is still weighted down by the biggest stone of all.
Yesterday we had a gorgeous full moon; tonight's moon is incarnadine, like a vampire's baleful, hungry stare. On a night like this, it's easy to imagine a small fleet of cursed ships, chock full of the undead, sailing upriver against this wind, intent on some fell mission. I wanted to take a picture of tonight's moon, but try as I might, the BlackBerry's not up to the task, so you'll just have to imagine it.
Sleep well, all.
Ah, this wind. This amazing wind.
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Sunday, August 17, 2008
107 degrees
You'd think the sun would be at its hottest around noon, and you'd be wrong. Things really start to cook from early to mid-afternoon, especially in these parts. In the summertime, in the higher latitudes, the sun doesn't peak until well after noon. By 5PM, the ground has been thoroughly roasted, so a person lying on the ground inside a tent is catching heat quite literally from all sides, despite the refreshing river breeze and the ThermaRest foam pad beneath him.
Afternoon temps shot up ten degrees from my previous report, from 97 to 107. Re-setting my tent was a chore; I should have taken commenter Richardson's advice and covered those sprinklers with rocks. The soil at the new site is very sandy; tent stakes wouldn't stay in the ground, so I had to weigh the lines down with large stones, of which there was, luckily, no shortage. The poncho took a while to figure out; I tried several clever arrangements only to discover that they weren't so clever. What you see in the previous photo is brought to you courtesy of my bungee cords.
It's definitely cooler inside the tent than outside it, especially when a decent breeze manages to slip an air-tendril under the tent fly, but the tent is designed to withstand thunderstorms and harsh gusts, so whatever comes into the tent has already been drained of most of its kinetic energy (recall my experience at the Celilo campground).
The end result is that the tent is a 90-something-degree sweatbox, and my head (not to mention the rest of my body) is releasing perspiration faster than I can drink it in from the Camelbak.
Tomorrow, I'll be leaving a bit late, as I'll be sending more unnecessaries home via the Arlington post office, which opens at 9AM. Tonight, I'll hit one of the gas. stations for water, ice cubes (they'll be mostly melted by morning, but still quite cold), drinks, and PowerAde, which I like better than Gatorade.
My solar charger is sitting on a nearby rock, charging for its third day. I've decided to try to charge it for as long as possible before using it with the BlackBerry; if an entire day's charging produces only a few minutes' battery life, then I probably need to charge for at least a week, don't I?
All of this is enough to convince me I could never pull a Thoreau and lead a near-primitive existence for two years. I like modernity too much and see little reason for humanity to regress, even when on vacation. Want to clear your head of modern noise? Go meditate! You can do it anywhere! This isn't to say that I can't live in isolation; I can do that just fine. If you put me in a cave that had the plush amenities of a high-end apartment (library, fast computer with blazing Internet connection, a well-equipped kitchen, an adequate bedroom, and a well-designed bathroom), I'd do just fine for two years. Just don't expect me to feel the same bliss inside a drafty cabin with only my latrine bacteria for company.
Damn, it's hot.
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not so hot
According to Weather.com, it's only about 95 in Arlington right now, which is the reason why it almost feels cool here in the shade.
I checked out at 11AM, walked down to the campground, and set up camp by noon. It's "dry camping" here, whatever that means. What it means for my wallet is $9 for tonight, but that's a pittance; I'm happy to pay it. This isn't one of those state park campgrounds that let you pay by credit card, though, so I'm about to walk back into town, have some lunch, pay in cash, and come back to the campground with $9 even.
Meantime, I'm a bit worried about the possibility that I've set up camp next to a sprinkler. I'm about four feet away from it, which means the items inside my tent have nothing to fear, but all the same I'd rather not deal with soggy soil and an unnecessarily drenched tent fly.
I'm camped at this spot because none of the dry camping spots are clearly marked out. There's a large area by the river's edge that offers plenty of room (and pebbly ground) for tents; I avoided all that in favor of this very soft patch of grass, which comes with its own picnic table and shade trees (so no, I haven't set up the poncho). The only problem is that sprinkler. Is it a sprinkler? Oy.
Right-- off to lunchie. Meantime, congrats to Michael Phelps for making history. Eight gold medals in a single Olympics! I imagine the Chinese don't particularly care (living in foreign countries gives you a true taste of how parochial the news coverage can be), but it's a proud moment for us Yanks.
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out into DA HEAT
It's going to be 109 degrees in Arlington today, just like yesterday, but I'm checking out of this motel and moving over to the RV park-cum-campground by the river. Once there, I'll see about setting up some poncho shade and photographing the respectable (or laughable) results of my efforts. On Monday morning, I'll mail off a pound or two of extra weight before heading off to the old Army Corps of Engineers campground near Exit 151. I'm morbidly curious as to how my knee will hold up during that walk, which will be at least 14 miles.
I bought some items to help out with water filtration and purification: a ginger ale bottle plus cotton balls, and a Brita water pitcher. The idea is to turn filtration into a three-step process.
First step: cut the bottom off the ginger ale bottle, stuff cotton into the bottleneck, close off the spout with fabric that's been elastic-banded into place, and run "dirty" water through the cut-off bottom. The idea here is to strain out most of the "macro"-scale problems, things that make river water cloudy, like mud/sand and algae. Most campsite purification and filtration systems come with disclaimers saying they work best with water that's already fairly clear, which means that, if they claim to strain out or kill 99.9999% of all dangerous microorganisms, you have to be a bit wary. I'm not a dainty guy, mind you: I'll drink water straight from the source if it comes to that, but would rather avoid the possibility of hiking a fifteen-mile stretch with diarrhea running down my legs.
Second step: the Brita pitcher. I've relied on Brita before and trust the brand, because Brita filters do a very good job of removing strange flavors and odors from tap water. The ability to deal with chemical issues is a big plus, in my opinion. The Brita will strain out most of whatever's left after the initial filtration, but might not catch all the microorganisms, which leads to our...
Third step: the Katadyn water pump filter. This is the hand pump I bought back in Portland. CouchSurfing host and REI guru Rico had recommended one of those ultraviolet lights that you place in a bottle of water, but I ultimately decided against it for two reasons: (1) online customer reviews were very mixed, with many folks noting that the light tended to crap out after only a few uses, or that it seemed weaker than expected (in fairness, I never saw a review that said, "I got sick after using the UV sterilizer"); and (2) the UV light's only function is to blast anything living, not to filter out all the critters and grit. So I opted for the Katadyn pump.
Anyway, it's time to get a move on. I had hoped to do laundry last night, but fell asleep. I want to do it this morning before 11AM checkout, but I'm friendly with the motel staffers and can probably get away with moving to the campground first and then coming back to the motel to use their machines. So there's no rush.
More later.
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400
I haven't made an exact count of it, but in looking up the length of I-5 inside the state of Washington, I got a figure of 278 miles from one online source. While I roughly followed I-5 while walking south from Blaine, I zigzagged quite a bit, meaning the actual distance walked was almost certainly over 280 miles. In following I-84 from Portland to where I am now in Arlington, Oregon, I've gone at least another 137 miles if we calculate mileage by exit numbers. Subtract 8 miles for the courtesy ride in the police car, and the total figure's somewhere over 400 miles.
Perhaps because there have been so many fewer CouchSurfing homes and religious establishments along this "post-Portlandic" part of the walk, I feel I've really been earning my pay (er, so to speak). I look forward to the cool relief that fall will bring, though I do remember the cold and wetness of some early parts of my walk through Washington, and don't look forward to the return of that unpleasant combination.
So: somewhere in recent days, I passed the 400-mile mark. I don't suppose that that's cause for celebration; let's talk again when I hit 1000 miles! In the meantime, 400 is a nice, round number. Not worth a party, but I'll give myself a Homer Simpsonian "woo-hoo!"
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